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When the AAA Club presents a “Four Diamond Award” most restaurateurs take immediate notice. There is an admirable reason why. The award is the result of two things; first the restaurant has to meet certain criteria to even be considered. Then, the award itself is based on an unannounced visit by a professional evaluator who has considerable experience with other restaurants meeting the standard.
In the end, it’s a great compliment to the chef and the restaurant. For instance, there were only 6 restaurants in Austin who were awarded the diamonds this year, and only 5 last year. In this case, the restaurant receiving the honor is Restaurant Jezebel. The restaurateur and Executive Chef is Parind Vora, and the compliment being given by AAA was presented first in 2008 and then again in 2009 (Jezebel is the only chef-owned establishment on the list).
The honor follows from the kind of restaurant Jezebel was intended to be - excellence in menu items, faithfully prepared, and offered with exceptional service. To see this, let’s start with the restaurant itself. Jezebel was opened seven years ago in Ruidoso, New Mexico and quickly distinguished itself as an outstanding dining experience. Then in mid 2006, Chef Vora moved the entire concept to Austin and began looking for the place to reopen. He found what he was looking for in the 130 year old Terrell Building on the corner of 10th and Congress Avenue, with the Capital building just outside the door.
The restaurant (with its plaster walls and huge plate glass window onto Congress) shows its character through the blemishes and patina of its age. After building out his kitchen and training a staff, he then filled the restaurant with the l'art nu of modern traditionalist Tom Darrah. Finally, he dressed the tables with family heirlooms, and set them with the finest bone china and crystal stemware.
Then came the menu.
Chef Vora offers an al la carte menu with choices ranging from grilled romaine lettuce hearts to sautéed escargot on the “starter” menu. The main courses include such choices as mahogany garlic chicken breast, fresh Dungeness crab with jasmine rice, roasted double-thick pork chops over Yukon potato gratin, and slow-braised Colorado lamb shank with sweet potatoes and a delicious pomegranate glaze. There is also a list of seasonal specials including Hudson Valley foi gras, Maine lobster bisque with sea scallops, and Atlantic salmon with crispy veal sweetbreads.
In case you couldn’t tell - the menu is as broad as it is fantastic. But, there is also a second choice for ordering. Restaurant Jezebel offers a Prix Fixe menu for the whole table. Tell the server and chef what you might like to see (or don’t care to see) and then stand back as the Chef’s personally-chosen courses roll out of the kitchen to your delight.
During the filming of We Are Austin: Executive Chefs, Chef Vora prepared the beautiful Pan-Roasted Tomato appetizer, served on a bed of organic greens and topped with jumbo-chunk crab meat mixed with blue cheese and finished with a mild chipotle oil. He also prepared a fantastic Atlantic Salmon with a perfectly seared crust. While the salmon was cooking, he began a sauce of olive oil mixed with crushed red pepper, thinly shaved garlic, and capers. “It’s an Indian technique of infusing flavors and spices through oil” he says. Then he plates the salmon with the sauce, and finishes by placing a series of dark El Ray chocolate buttons (high 73% cocoa) atop the salmon filet. “The high cocoa content is the perfect compliment to the richness of the salmon” he says.
As if that wasn’t enough, he also plated their extravagant foi gras - pan seared with a sweet Thai chili sauce (made of sugar, garlic, red pepper and a touch of balsamic reduction). This dish, like the others, was perfectly prepared and beautifully plated.
Restaurant Jezebel is open for a lunch menu from 11:30am to 1:30pm Mon-Friday, and dinner is served from 6pm to 11pm Monday through Thursday, and until midnight on Friday and Saturday.
Restaurant Jezebel www.restaurantjezebel.com
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